You learned the basic use of a flash unit earlier in the semester, but thereʻs more! Itʻs easy to use a flash in dim light because the only light source (as far as the film is concerned) is the flash. That makes it easy, even when you bounce the light or add the diffuser.
Photographers, however, often use flash units to create fill light, to fill in shadows when they are making portraits. In other words, they balance TWO light sources to enhance the lighting of a portrait. Used in this way, the flash is the secondary light source, not the main light source. Hereʻs how:
Step I
Load a roll of 100 film, 25 exposures and attach a Sunpak 383 flash with diffuser.
Step II
Set the flash to 100 ASAand select the orange f/16 setting. Set your camera to its “flash sync” setting. For older K-1000 cameras this is 60th second. For newer ZX-M cameras, this is 100th sec. Do not change this setting during this exercise or something bad will happen. Ask me and Iʻll be happy to explain what will happen.
Step III
Since you have to leave your camera at 1/60th second, you cannot do this assignment in full sunlight. Your task is to go on a search mission, to find lighting that will allow you to balance your cameraʻs needle, even when the shutter speed is at 1/60th (or 1/100th for the ZX-M). Bring a willing model with you and find that light! Hint: think of shadow areas next to buildings, or places under the walkways. Try to pick a place that also has a subdued background.
Step IV
Leaving the diffuser on, take some upper-body portraits with the camera held in the vertical position.This time, however, take four shots of each pose and bracket the flash strength: 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. Why bracket? We donʻt know exactly what is the correct setting. When you develop the roll and make a contact sheet, we will notice which strength produces the most attractive portrait.
What should you see?
Your final contact sheet of about 24 frames will show six different poses in six different areas or with six different angles. The four shots for each of those poses will be correctly exposed (because you took a meter reading and balanced your needle before shooting.) However, the upper body and face of your subject will be lighter than the background, as though you had dodged the person in the darkroom. You are aiming at getting a portrait with the personʻs face slightly lighter, but not so light that it looks washed-out and fake.